“There’s no air conditioning, and I am sweating!”
The affable Luigi Collavini from Eugenio Collavini says that he’s uncomfortable in his family’s warm wine offices during our online tasting back in August; but you wouldn’t notice it on our Zoom call. Luigi is animated, and clearly eager to share his family’s story (and wines).
One of the owners of Eugenio Collavini, Luigi runs the company with his brother Giovanni (with input from their father, Manlio), who handles the wine and finances. “He doesn’t like to travel, and I do; he likes to work, and I don’t,” Luigi jokes, which is why he does the marketing side of things. As to why he’s sweating, he notes that their company is big on sustainability (hence, no air conditioning).
Eugenio Collavini was established in 1896 by Luigi’s great-grandfather, who “started to do wine in a very private, very local way, with a few hundred liters of wine” that was sold personally in his hometown every year. The business took a hit due to WW I and WW II, but his father rejuvenated the business in the 1960s, expanding sales to immigrants who left the region to travel abroad for work (particularly in Canada, with the help of a Montreal pizza shop owner who also imported wine). Sensing that the future of Pinot Grigio would be in white wines (rather than the then-popular skin-contacted blush), his father “went in the opposite direction than everybody else” and started producing a clean, bianco version of PG. They started sending wines to the USA around 50 years ago, and haven’t looked back since.
Luigi cites Eugenio Collavini’s location in italy’s northeastern Friuli (in the Collio and Colli Orientali appellations) as providing their wines with a combination of freshness, minerality, elegance, and roundness of texture. The dog featured prominently on several of their labels is not just for artistic purposes: its an actual winery dog, Ribolla, who they decided to immortalize into their branding after he passed away.
Usually, I despise the PR stuff that is used to describe a winery’s wares, but in the case of Eugenio Collavini, it’s actually pretty spot-on: “Collavini prides itself on producing clean, modern wines while retaining the traditions and grape varieties native to the region. The main range of wines is from a strip of hills against the Slovenian border, offering… intense wines with impressive richness and length.” Uhm… yep.
NV Eugenio Collavini ‘Il Grigio’ Spumante, Italy, $NA
A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio, aged on the lees for about 6 months. One of the first sparklers produced in the region, according to Luigi, with its first bottling appearing over 50 years ago, and (a rarity at the time) was conceived as a dry bubbly. Fine stuff here, with lemon, white blossoms, lime rind, pear, and apple action galore. Light hints of brioche, an elegant mouthfeel, and a long finish with toast and green apple wrap it all up in a thoroughly elegant way.
Sourced from fruit grown in San Floriano del Collio, Gorizia, Cormòns and Mossa, this PG is aged on the lees after a short, low temperature maceration. “The main characteristic of Collio is the soil, called ‘ponca’,” notes Luigi; marl and sandstone layers formed from an ancient seabed that becomes well-draining, fragile rock with air contact. “It’s very rich in minerals.” So is this white from whence it came. Floral, with white peach, ripe lemon, just-ripe melon, a bit of pineapple, and a fabulously fresh and mineral palate that balances creamy edges with a nice line of acidic tension and salty nuances, there’s a great finish to this delicious white, sporting a touch of lemon peel astringency.
2023 Eugenio Collavini Collio ‘T’ Friulano, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, $NA
“It’s never been too easy to sell Friulano around the world, and now it’s even harder,” half-jokes Luigi. Which is a shame, because this one is very f*cking good. Fruit from San Floriano del Collio is used to make this rich and fresh white. Citrus, sapidity, flower blossoms, and hints of hay and nuts; this is hitting all of the Friulano notes just right. It’s not the most complex rendition, but it’s got an impeccable, lovely purity of expression from its waxy entry to its bitter-almond finish.
2021 Eugenio Collavini ‘Broy’ Bianco Collio, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, $NA
Named after the family’s vegetable garden where his great-grandfather produced the family’s first wines. this blend of Friulano, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon from San Floriano del Collio and Cormòns sits on the lees for up to a year. Luigi describes it as “like a postcard from Collio,” and it’s meant to showcase what they can do with the region’s top white grape varieties. Herbs, pine, nettle, smoke, citrus, exotic tropical fruits, dried white flowers; the nose is complex and fascinating. The palate blends interesting aspects of all three varieties, with a combination of roundness, electric citric acidity, sapidity, and astringent structure on the finish. It’s very difficult to resist this sultry, hedonistic, and finely-crafted white.
2023 Eugenio Collavini ‘Pucino’ Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso Colli Orientali del Friuli, $NA
100% Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, aged in stainless steel, Luigi calls it “a Summer red wine.” Licorice, pepper, bramble, tobacco leaf, all mingling with lifted aromas of wild red berry fruits and herbs all make appearances. There’s a short-ish finish, but it’s so delicious and refreshing that you won’t care since you’ll be downing it with gusto anyway. The hardy tannins are present but well-managed, and will suit grilled burgers just fine.
2020 Eugenio Collavini ‘Turian’ Schioppettino Colli Orientali del Friuli, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, $NA
This Schioppettino (a.k.a. Ribolla Nera) is aged in oak barriques for up to 18 months, with another 18 months in bottle, sourced using fruit from Prepotto, which they consider the region of this variety’s best expressions. Black pepper, earth/funk, black raspberry, spices, and dark forest fruits on the nose. Concentrated and very spicy on the palate, with pepper, cinnamon, dried herbs, and oodles of that concentrated black raspberry fruit flavor. Despite the fruity and juicy nature, it’s got the stuffing to age well in bottle.
Cheers!