NV Albert Bichot Cremant de Bourgogne Brut Reserve (Burgundy): Earth-y, biscuit-y, and pleasingly apple fruit-y. $27 B+
2017 Chateau Simone Palette Blanc (Provence): Bruised yellow apples, honey, and golden richness to challenge the intellect. $70 A-
2021 Domaine Labet ‘Fleur de Savagnin’ en Chalasse (Cotes du Jura): A masterclass in racy, linear, focused acidic backbone. $190 A…