“Old vines are great, but they’re, well, old.”
Late last year, I had the pleasure of catching up (via Zoom) with Julie Julie Pedroncelli, who (after her father officially retired at the age of 90) is now President of Pedroncelli, a stalwart fixture on the Sonoma wine scense since its founding in 1927. With their fourth generation now involved, Pedroncelli recently celebrated their 90th vintage of winemaking in the region, and it’s stilled helmed by the same family.
Among their 115 acres of vines are plenty of older plants requiring meticulous care in a labor of love to keep them going; and Pedroncelli itself in many ways mirrors their seemingly unstoppable nature. “We have all of this consistency,” Julie remarked, “in the family, in the vineyard, even in the staff.”
Under the hood, however, plenty of things are in flux at Pedroncelli: they’re undergoing block-by-block replantings on their Home Ranch site; in the cellar, there are new, smaller tanks and an upgraded barrel program, all seeking to better match oak to variety and to launch a line of smaller-lot wines. Additionally, they now have four national labels, smaller releases targeted for DTC, and have totally revamped their labels and packaging.
It’s paying off, too; somehow, at a time when the global wine business is spiraling down the market toilet, Pedroncelli is actually growing; slowly, and steadily, like their history. It might make for less exciting copy, but it’s undoubtedly working.
2023 Pedroncelli ‘Giovanni & Giulia’ Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Creek Valley, $20
Named after Julie’s grandparents, this is a spicy, tropical, and floral SB, sourced from two separate picks of both estate and purchased fruit. Starfruit jumps from the glass, and the palate is lively, grassy, and vibrant.
2022 Pedroncelli ‘Mother Clone’ Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, $24
The new label for this release is classy and impressive; the wine inside, though powerful and bold, reflects that class well. There’s great balance here for such a hot and dry vintage, with notes of pepper, meat, and dark plums. “What’s in that bottle,” Julie stated, “are three generations of Zinfandel,” including some vines still producing after 100+ years.
2022 Pedroncelli ‘Sonoma Classico’ Red Blend, Dry Creek Valley, $24
A blend of Merlot, Syrah, Zin, Sangiovese, and “a few Port varieties,” only 3,000 cases were made. Plummy, peppery, jammy, and floral, this is instantly likeable. Hints of earth in the mid-palate keep things interesting, lifting it above just being a porch-pounder.
2022 Pedroncelli ‘Brother’s Mark’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Dry Creek Valley, $25
Julie’s father and uncle are honored in this Cab, sourced from the east side of Pedroncelli’s estate, with small amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot included. It’s tangy, smokey, and savory, with plenty of wood spice, currants, and gamey meat action.
2021 Pedroncelli Bushnell Vineyard Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, $40
A 100% Zin sourced from a high bench on Julie’s cousin’s vineyard, specific yeasts and a mild oak toast bring out the “depth of quality” (in Julie’s words) in this funky, spicy, earthy, jammy, dark, and quite concentrated red. Sealing the deal is a very long finish of fresh and dried blackberry and dried herbs.
2022 Pedroncelli ‘Legacy Block’ Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, $45
2022 marks the first release of this Zin from their Home Ranch vineyard, from hillside plantings of Rockpile clones. Julie’s take is that these clones are lower production, but what they do get is more naturally concentrated fruit. It’s alluring, with red fruits dominating, tinged with spices, licorice, and pomegranate notes. The balance on the palate is fantastic, giving it an elegance that’s rare for Zin in general.
2022 Pedroncelli Block 10 Cabernet Sauvignon,Dry Creek Valley, $NA
Another first release for Pedroncelli, the sandy loam soils of their Home Ranch site provide the foundation for this Cab’s vines. Dusty spices abound, along with notes of cola, dried herbs, blackcurrants, and cedar. The mouthfeel is absolutely lovely, with dark red fruit flavor, intriguing spices, and plenty of lift.
2021 Pedroncelli Dry Creek Valley Estate Vineyard ‘Wisdom’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County, $60
From plantings dating back to the 1960s comes this excellent, powerful, and earthy Cab. There’s plenty to mine in this red’s dark, flavorful depths, but the key elements are its abundant plummy fruits and dried green herb notes, packaged into a palate presence that’s substantial and assertive.
Cheers!
Thank you Joe for the article on our family business and for the great reviews on our wines!
Cheers, Julie!