A quick warning: this will be a rather long feature post. Also, those with arachnophobia may want to proceed with caution. The rest of you lushes? Welcome to the wines of New Mexico.
Longtime 1WD readers already know that I have a penchant for making time for media tours to wine destinations that are not typically traditional wine coverage headline material. Hell, when I finally toured Bordeaux, it was to explore the red wines of Entre-Deux-Mers… It will come as no surprise to those people that I jumped at the opportunity to tour New Mexico wine country last year (2023).
Like many of the “Other 48” winemaking states in the USA, New Mexico has a long history of wine production, coming up on its 400th anniversary according to New Mexico Wine, which survived Prohibition through, as was explained to me during my visit, “continuous legal and illegal means.”
Like most historic yet largely under-the-radar wine regions, New Mexico has to paradoxically find its place in the modern wine market even after amassing centuries of winemaking under its belt. New Mexico is in the odd position of not being able to pitch itself directly as a wine destination only, because despite its long wine history there simply isn’t enough production built up to support that (not yet, anyway). The focus instead is to use fine wine to help attract the state’s bustling contingent of annual tourists, and those flying in for work from nearby spots such as El Paso. Producers here are still experimenting to see what sticks and what doesn’t (at one point, Noisy Water Winery had 60 active SKUs), led primarily by a “founding fathers” group of winemakers hailing from more traditionally “Old World” wine countries like Italy and Germany, and who are now bringing their second generations into the business.
The thing that New Mexico primarily has going for it from a farming perspective is inexpensive land coupled with ample sunshine. Aside from the challenges you’d expect from high desert farming, the main issue is water, which is decidedly not plentiful, and water rights figures to be the hot-button topic among NM growers for the foreseeable future.
Following are highlights from my NM winery visits, in the order that I experienced them. Do I expect you to be able to get your hands on these wines easily? Nope. Are they worth seeking out if you find yourself in NW wine country? Absolutely. As you will see below, the quality “floor” for New Mexico fine wine is surprisingly (or, maybe inevitably, given its long history) high, and the future for NM wine looks about as bright as the state’s sunniest days…
Rio Grande Winery
2021 Rio Grande Vineyards & Winery ‘RGW’ Rosé, Mesilla Valley, $NA
Started in 2002, this producer has a tasting room well set up to receive and entertain visitors with its killer views. Their club-only rosé is a delight, combining dried rose petal and fresh cherry action in a perky package that transcends its kitchen-sink style blending of seven different varieties.
2021 Rio Grande Vineyards & Winery Mission, New Mexico, $NA
Crafted from what they term “wildly ripe” bunches of NM’s original wine grape variety, this Mission is surprisingly structured, deep, dark, plummy, pruney, meaty, herbal, crazy, and unique, and seems a perfect match for grilled burgers.
2021 Rio Grande Vineyards & Winery ‘The Spaniard’ Red, Mesilla Valley, $NA
A sultry combo of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Tempranillo (the latter likely giving rise to the name), this is a juicy, plummy red blend with enticing tobacco spice notes, and a broad-shouldered palate entry that transforms into a plush, silky, delicious mouthfeel (and mouthful).
2021 Rio Grande Vineyards & Winery Petit Verdot, Mesilla Valley, $NA
This extremely promising red showcases what very well might become one of NM’s flagship varieties. Dried violets, dark black cherry, blueberry… the PV markers are all there, offered up in a smooth package that doesn’t lack for either fruit or structure.
Lescombes Family Vineyards
The founders of Lescombes, hailing from a Bordeaux family, failed multiple times since the early 1980s to start up a successful wine business in NM, but are now in the process of expanding (thanks to labels made for outlets such as Aldi) and currently source 20+ varieties from 220 acres of vines. Their food-grade certified production in Deming is led by brothers from the family’s sixth generation, and they also own multiple restaurants in the region. I tasted from samples still in production during my visit (but I am a professional, so you can probably trust me!).
2023 Lescombes ‘Heritage’ Chardonnay, New Mexico, $26
This Chardonnay was already showing very promising floral, herbal, and citrus hints, with a balanced, peachy mouthfeel that offered up flavors of ripe pears, yellow apples and mandarin.
2021 Lescombes Malvasia, New Mexico, $NA
Probably meant for blending with Riesling in their ‘631 Signature’ line (around $22), the unfiltered tank sample I tried of their straight-up Malvasia made me think that NM might want to consider planting more Malvasia. This was both tropical and fresh, simultaneously promising and instantly seductive.
Luna Rosa Winery
Founded in 2001 by Paolo and Sylvia D’Andrea, and now with their son Marco D’Andrea in the cellar, Luna Rosa (“red moon”) is one of NM’s most promising and dedicated producers. Paolo is originally from Friuli, and they have a pizzeria along with an active vine nursery where, according to Marco, they have a “ton” of varieties planted (“because it’s fun, and because we can”).
2016 Luna Rosa Reserve Nebbiolo, New Mexico, $50
It might be a bit on the oaky side, but this Nebbiolo is instantly recognizable as Nebbiolo in all its floral, red fruited glory; no mean feat I am sure in NM’s desert sun. Fascinating, powerful, and downright delicious.
2022 Luna Rosa Arneis, Mimbres Valley, $19
Heady, perfumed, floral, and vibrant, this white is as close to Italy as you can probably ever get from NM. The D’Andrea family clearly feels at home with this white variety, which showed excellent promise (at least in this vintage).
2020 Luna Rosa Montepulciano, New Mexico, $22
Woody, spicy, tangy, and heavy on the red plums, this Montepulciano is true to form with nice balance between its ample acids, juicy fruitiness, and fine structure. Ultimately, it’s that balance that raises this one above being just a people-pleaser red.
2020 Luna Rosa Refosco, New Mexico, $24
FORZA! Flexing its muscular side as all good Refosco should, this red has great color, fun funky meatiness, and plenty of dark sour cherry fruit. Fresh, structured, and powerful, and (almost) equal parts just plain fun.
2014 Luna Rosa Aglianico, New Mexico, $50
They started showing off a bit at the end of our tasting… Here’s proof that structure isn’t lacking in NM grapes despite all of that sunshine. A little bit of volatile acidity doesn’t take away from this aged red’s fine dried and fresh plum fruit action, with enough dried spices to make you think you were in the middle of seasoning the roast that would be the natural pairing with this thing.
2016 Luna Rosa Reserve Barbera, New Mexico, $50
What this lacks in typicity for Barbera, it makes up for in quality. And oomph. This is a big MFer, with red plum, strawberry, dried herbs, and a very spicy palate that just won’t quit.
NV Luna Rossa Winery ‘Conquistador’, New Mexico, $34
A high desert dessert wine crafted in solera style from Portuguese varieties Souzão/Sezão and Touriga Nacional, this is reminiscent of a good Reserve Ruby Port. Think spices, smoke, a supple palate, rum raisin, and various grilled red fruits and you’ll get the tasty idea.
More to come in Part 2…
Cheers!