During the 4th of July festivities in the States, I had the good fortune to take part in a media tour of a region I’ve long longed (see what I did there?) to visit: Italy’s Asolo Prosecco Superiore.
I’ve written about this largely unsung area of bubbly production before, and you can check out that post for a lot of the vitals about the region. Having said that, I learned quite a bit more about Asolo during a masterclass by the inimitable Giampaolo Giancabbo, held at the gorgeous Villa Freya (once home to Freya Stark, English journalist, likely spy, and all-around female version of Lawrence of Arabia).
Before we dive into the excellent wines featured during that masterclass, here are some additional facts about the region not already discussed on these virtual pages:
- Asolo sits at the bottom left point of a triangle formed by Asolo itself, Valdobbiadene, and the Conegliano Prosecco production regions.
- This is the birthplace of the Neclassic art style in Europe (which personally I find very cool).
- Unofficially, Asolo has roughly eight different topologies and soil compositions in its growing areas hillsides.
- When the Venetian republic annexed the region in the 14th century, things really took off for it as a recognized producer of top-quality wines.
- Asolo was awarded DOCG status in 2009. While primarily composed from Glera grapes, up to 15% other varieties can be used (local candidates typically include Bianchetta, Trevigiano, Verdiso, Perera, and Glera Lunga).
- Due to its ample weaving hillsides, Asolo is called the “city of 1,000 horizons.” I imagine that the farmers also call it “pain in the ass to harvest.”
- There are only about three residents per hectare in this sparsely populated area of Italy.
- Production continues its impressively linear but controlled growth in Asolo: from 2014 to 2023, its growth was a whopping 830%. Since 2019, new plantings have largely been blocked.
Now that you’ve got the lay of the land, let’s start drinking…
2022 Case Paolin Col Fondo ‘Sui Lieviti’ Brut Nature, Asolo Prosecco, $NA,
This cloudy bubbly is an homage to how sparkling wine was made in the region in the past. Sourced from vines aged about 30 years, this sparkler is left on the skins for 15-18 hours, with secondary fermentation taking place in bottle. Acacia flower, delicate apple and herbal aromas, lemon zest, and lovely minerality all make it a fascinating sipper.
NV Martignago Extra Brut, Asolo Prosecco Superiore, $NA
From limestone, silex, and pressed sand soils comes this very fresh, very sapid, very savory, very dry, very food-friendly, and very elegant bubbly. Hints of almonds mix with dried herb notes, and flavors of green apples and pears. The finish is long and fun, with white pepper and saffron action.
NV Villa Sandi ‘Nero’ Extra Brut, Asolo Prosecco Superiore, $NA
From grapes farmed close to the river near Onigo, this mouthwatering Extra Brut shows aromas of smoke, minerals, acacia, nettle, and apples. In the mouth, it’s creamy, then gets focused and linear (and almost salty), with lemon rind and even white chocolate flavors.
NV Amadio Asolo Prosecco Superiore Brut, $NA
This lovely example of small production Asolo Brut hails from the Comune di Monfumo in Treviso, kicking off with aromas of Granny Smith apple, mint, white flowers, and saline. The fresh and assertive palate is full of juicy citrus flavors, and finishes with long notes of white peaches.
NV Bele Casel Extra Dry Asolo Prosecco Superiore, $25
From the hills of Cornuda and deep, iron-rich, red soils comes this irresistibly fruity bubbly. Bright, spicy, earthy, and ample, this one is immediately inviting. Each sip is fresh as a daisy, sporting lots of apple action, nice saltiness, and tinges of grapefruit rind.
2023 Cantina Montelliana Extra Dry Asolo Prosecco Superiore, $18
The Glera for this sparkler comes from the historic “Montello” hill. It opens with sage, thyme, saline, green and yellow apples, and citrus. moving to pear flavors on a palate that is equal parts mellow and charming.
2023 LeTerre Asolo Prosecco Superiore Millesimato Dry, $NA
This vintage Asolo is 100% Glera, farmed from limestone-rich soils. There’s plenty of “fruit salad” on the nose but in a delicate way, intermixed with white flower aromas. I loved the balance of the sweetness and acidity on the palate; it scores points for harmony, for sure. Everything is tied up nicely on the palate by a floral finish that also evokes pears and white figs.
Cheers!