Jean-Michel Deiss likes to talk spit. That his family, winegrowers since 1744, are established as the Alsatian version of winemaking royalty probably helps him to get away with it. “Wine today is an industrial project,” he told me (through interpretation) during a media tour visit to Domaine Marcel Deiss‘ Bergheim winery. “But great wine is…
Category: on the road
Contact Points (A Decade Of Cà Maiol’s Molin Lugana)
Walter Contato knew potential when he saw it. Like an inordinate number of Italians before and after him, this successful Milan-born businessman took holidays in the sometimes-too-charming-for-words (as in, how-the-hell-are-we-gonna-get-the-car-through-these-narrow-Medieval-streets?!?? levels of charming) Lake Garda town of Sirmione. As an inordinate number of successful white businessmen seem to want to still do, Contato eventually decided…
37th Heaven (Highlights From The 2017 San Francisco International Wine Competition)
By the time that you read these words, the results of the 37th (!!) annual San Francisco International Wine Competition should be publicly available, so I thought that I would share some of the highlights among the event’s big winners. The SFIWC is one of my favorite weekends of the year. Under the watchful eyes…
Complex, With A Complex (Vinas del Vero Somontano Recent Releases)
What do you do when your identity, your story, and even your best efforts are only seen through the contextual lens of your more famous cousins? Besides developing an inferiority complex, I mean? After all, major characters in Greek tragedies were written with this stuff in mind; and it happens to be the defining lucha…