2016 Renato Ratti Barbera d’Asti (Piedmont): Brash, bold, and beautifully bountiful of brambly, berry fruit. $25 B+ 2014 Tenute Cisa Asinari Marchesi di Gresy Martinenga (Barbaresco): Perkily picking itself up and confidently wiping the topsoil from its leather jacket sleeve. $60 A- 2017 Donnafugata Bell’Assai Frappato Vittoria (Sicily): Floral, friendly, and fun, and capable of…